Steve in the state of GA. I have to have 3 sinks to wash, rinse and sanitize. Do i need another pump for the faucet? How about the fresh water and waste water access? Thanks in advance.
No, just run two switches, one for the hand wash sink and one for the three compartment sink. The fresh water plumbing would be the same. As for the waste water just tee the three sinks together and then run the drain pipe into the same waste water tank.
Hello Steve, I’m putting the finishing touches on my cart now, but quick question…
is the Switch ONLY to deter the water “freeloaders”, or is it necessary to conserve power? the pump I have is a shurflo, and it only turns on (you can hear it running) whenever you open the faucet.
If you have an “on demand” pump then you don’t need the switch, although I would still put a switch somewhere so that you can kill the circuit if you want to.
As long as the pump is at the same level as the bottom of the fresh water tank you won’t need to prime it. In other words, if your tank is on the cart body floor your pump should be too.
Steve,
I have used the Shurflo On Demand water pump for yrs living off the grid in AZ. You can get them at NorthernTool.com. It connected directly to the Deep Cycle Marine batteries that I used for powering my home. It can be attached to any 12v battery. I know Deep Cycle Marine batteries are heavier than what you have recommended for a cart but they have a long life expectancy. And, of course, a little bit more expensive. But if someone wants an on demand pump this is my recommendation.
SHURflo On-Demand Diaphragm Pump — 1/2in. Ports, 180 GPH, 12 Volt Motor, Model# 2088-343-435
(55)
Was $99.99
Sale $89.99
180 gallons per hour is WAAAY to much for these little plumbing systems. The Shurflo Nautilus that I recommend in the bill of materials is rated at one gallon per minute (60 GPH). Stick with the smaller pump.
Steve,
I’m having a little trouble understanding this water pump. And having a hard time looking for the Shurflo nautilus but I found a seaflo one that 12v 1.2 GPM 35 PSI or do you think that’s to much PSI for the cart.
I am almost up to the plumbing, in between 2 jobs and some family commitments this has been a slower ride than I would have hoped.
Can you send a picture of how you have things connected under the sink?
From what I could see you have a pvc coupler from the cold going into a L shaped hose barb, I assume you screw the hose coming from the water heater right into the hot threads hanging down. Is that right? Can you share a picture?
Steve
Dont mean to be dense but im installing my pump tomorrow and from the video it looks like yours is installed into the skin of the cart table level? doesnt the pump need more support?
No, the skin is about 1/4″ thick and holds a screw pretty well. If you want to, you can use machine screws, washers, and nuts. That would be bullet proof.
Hey Steve.
I got a on demand hot water heater made by a company called Wilson. (just mentioning name in case for some reason won’t work with your setup. In any case I have 2 questions…..
1) it comes with a seperate gas hose and regulator. Do i need a regulator for each appliance? eg. 1 for heater and one for stove?
2) If not can i use this regulator that came with it for my gas system instead of buying one?
There are also legal reasons why you might not want someone to use your sink. If you have ever gone into a place that serves food, etc., many of them will not let you use their restrooms. One of the reasons for this is the liability factor. The minute you use their sink it becomes a “public sink.” If it doesn’t meet all of the ADA (American with Disabilities Act) requirements (Sink at the right height, mirror at the right height, etc.) they can be fined and/or sued.
Another reason to not let people use your sink, in addition to the above possible reasons, is the hot water temperature. Your water must be up to a certain temperature for health department reasons. You could be held liable if they burn themselves.
I don’t like to mention the above things, but we do live in a very litigious society.
Just my two cents. People are welcome to do what they wish. It would just be such a shame to work so hard to get your business up and running and then lose it over something that could have been avoided.
Click here to download the wiring diagram for the pump, battery, and switch.
Steve in the state of GA. I have to have 3 sinks to wash, rinse and sanitize. Do i need another pump for the faucet? How about the fresh water and waste water access? Thanks in advance.
No, just run two switches, one for the hand wash sink and one for the three compartment sink. The fresh water plumbing would be the same. As for the waste water just tee the three sinks together and then run the drain pipe into the same waste water tank.
If you use an “on demand” pump (about the same price) you don’t need the switch. The pump will come on automatically when the water is turned on.
Thanks Rick, do you have a make and model that you like?
I don’t see the wiring diag. Do you ground the pump back to the neg battery terminal or to the frame or both?
To the battery terminal only.
Hello Steve, I’m putting the finishing touches on my cart now, but quick question…
is the Switch ONLY to deter the water “freeloaders”, or is it necessary to conserve power? the pump I have is a shurflo, and it only turns on (you can hear it running) whenever you open the faucet.
trying to figure out if it is 100% necessary.
thanks for all you do!
If you have an “on demand” pump then you don’t need the switch, although I would still put a switch somewhere so that you can kill the circuit if you want to.
Ok thank you, pictures coming soon!
What amp fuse should I be using?
5 Amp for a 1 to 1.5 gallon per hour pump.
My pump reads 1.5 amp, 2.5 amp max. Should I still be using a 5 amp?
Yes. You want to allow a little cushion for power surges, otherwise you’ll be blowing fuses all the time.
Hi Steve;
I have a question about priming the water line, how should this be done prior to the inspections?
Thanks, Dtrainn
As long as the pump is at the same level as the bottom of the fresh water tank you won’t need to prime it. In other words, if your tank is on the cart body floor your pump should be too.
Steve,
I have used the Shurflo On Demand water pump for yrs living off the grid in AZ. You can get them at NorthernTool.com
SHURflo On-Demand Diaphragm Pump — 1/2in. Ports, 180 GPH, 12 Volt Motor, Model# 2088-343-435
(55)
Was $99.99
Sale $89.99
Steve,
I have used the Shurflo On Demand water pump for yrs living off the grid in AZ. You can get them at NorthernTool.com. It connected directly to the Deep Cycle Marine batteries that I used for powering my home. It can be attached to any 12v battery. I know Deep Cycle Marine batteries are heavier than what you have recommended for a cart but they have a long life expectancy. And, of course, a little bit more expensive. But if someone wants an on demand pump this is my recommendation.
SHURflo On-Demand Diaphragm Pump — 1/2in. Ports, 180 GPH, 12 Volt Motor, Model# 2088-343-435
(55)
Was $99.99
Sale $89.99
180 gallons per hour is WAAAY to much for these little plumbing systems. The Shurflo Nautilus that I recommend in the bill of materials is rated at one gallon per minute (60 GPH). Stick with the smaller pump.
Steve,
I’m having a little trouble understanding this water pump. And having a hard time looking for the Shurflo nautilus but I found a seaflo one that 12v 1.2 GPM 35 PSI or do you think that’s to much PSI for the cart.
Hi Daniel,
That pump should work just fine. What ever pump you use, just be sure it’s not rated at much more than 1 gallon per minute. Here is a link to the Shurflo at a pretty good price:
http://www.adventurerv.net/shurflo-nautilus-single-station-water-pump-gpm-p-1713.html
What is the 3/8″ Tee that you have listed on the parts list? Can you please submit a photo of this part? Thanks
Sure. It looks like this:
Hi Steve,
I am almost up to the plumbing, in between 2 jobs and some family commitments this has been a slower ride than I would have hoped.
Can you send a picture of how you have things connected under the sink?
From what I could see you have a pvc coupler from the cold going into a L shaped hose barb, I assume you screw the hose coming from the water heater right into the hot threads hanging down. Is that right? Can you share a picture?
Thanks, LEO
Hi Leo, yes you are correct. The cold goes to the cold faucet threads, and the hot goes to the hot faucet threads. Here are a couple pictures.
Thank you I also saw a pump available at Harbor Freight. Would this work as opposed to the Shurflo?
No. That pump is way too powerful. Go with a pump that has a rating of one gallon per minute. The Shurflo Nautilus is the pump to get.
Steve
Dont mean to be dense but im installing my pump tomorrow and from the video it looks like yours is installed into the skin of the cart table level? doesnt the pump need more support?
No, the skin is about 1/4″ thick and holds a screw pretty well. If you want to, you can use machine screws, washers, and nuts. That would be bullet proof.
Hey Steve.
I got a on demand hot water heater made by a company called Wilson. (just mentioning name in case for some reason won’t work with your setup. In any case I have 2 questions…..
1) it comes with a seperate gas hose and regulator. Do i need a regulator for each appliance? eg. 1 for heater and one for stove?
2) If not can i use this regulator that came with it for my gas system instead of buying one?
You should be able to use one regulator, then tee off to each appliance.
Hello Steve,
There are also legal reasons why you might not want someone to use your sink. If you have ever gone into a place that serves food, etc., many of them will not let you use their restrooms. One of the reasons for this is the liability factor. The minute you use their sink it becomes a “public sink.” If it doesn’t meet all of the ADA (American with Disabilities Act) requirements (Sink at the right height, mirror at the right height, etc.) they can be fined and/or sued.
Another reason to not let people use your sink, in addition to the above possible reasons, is the hot water temperature. Your water must be up to a certain temperature for health department reasons. You could be held liable if they burn themselves.
I don’t like to mention the above things, but we do live in a very litigious society.
Just my two cents. People are welcome to do what they wish. It would just be such a shame to work so hard to get your business up and running and then lose it over something that could have been avoided.
Yep. Makes sense.