28 thoughts on “E-Z Built Video – Metal Secrets Part 2”
Steve, Great ideas on metal carts ,I think I will build wood cart for first year and retro next winter.I am one of those who did not have $350. but now I am able to get started. thanks a bunch ,Ron c
Steve, Glad to be here as a Premium member. I will eventually build a metal cart as I think it looks great but first I am going to build a basic wood one. Hopefully by the end of the summer I will be able to get this accomplished. Looking forward to watching the rest of the video’s and learning all that you have pioneered for the rest of us.
Sounds like a good plan. You can always cover your cart with metal at a later date as shown in the Metal Secrets videos. The wood construction method that we teach in the videos is actually stronger and much tougher than a cart built purely from metal.
Metal carts are held together with screws and rivets. Add a couple hundred miles of bumpy roads and those screws start to strip out and the rivets break.
Our E-Z Built Hot Dog Cart Videos show you how to build a cart using the same construction methods that airplane builders used in the golden age of aviation. The cart is built on a light wooden frame and covered with a thin plywood.
It is not only screwed together, it is glued together as well. The result is an extremely light, extremely stiff structure that will never come apart.
I’m still using the exact cart that you see me build in the E-Z Built construction videos. It’s several years old and looks like brand new.
Steve: I have a commercially made cart which I am selling….the 8″ tires and short wheel base really make it “zig zag” down the road behind my truck. Can you tell me the approximate cost to build the E-Z built with a metal skin (HD issue)?
Thank you again for all you do!!! I have been reading your info since summer of 2010 and it has been invaluable. I am moving from Washington back to Idaho since my wife’s passing so I want to build a better cart that doesn’t snake down the road…thank you again!
Thanks again…Larry Winters Island Dogs Camano Island Washington
Adding the metal skin can range from $300 for full diamond plate down to under $60 if you use wide rolls of aluminum flashing from the hardware store. The latter is becoming a really popular option among E-Z Builders.
As far as towing, I can speak from experience. When I tow my own E-Z Built I don’t even know it’s behind me unless I look in the rear view mirror. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Let me know what else I can do for you, and know that you have my prayers for your loss.
Hey Larry, just make sure your trailer is built square and towing should be no problem. Looking at some of the forums on those small trailers if they are not built square they tow all squirly. So use a framing square or a speed square to check every corner. Best of luck an happy building
Good advice Michael. I’ve had a lot of experience with these bolt together trailer kits and have not had any towing troubles but a square and true frame is always a good thing!
Hello Steve, I have just started to build my cart, out of wood not metal. The only problem I have is I also
Have to have three extra sinks. Any ideas would be helpful. Setting up a seperate plumbing system is that necessary. I also have seen a seperate sink system altogether, it’s on wheels and you can just have it in the area of the cart. Don’t know which way to go yet. Also just had left knee replaced so things will go slow. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
Left knee, huh. I guess you’re all right now. 😉
Build three sink basins into one box, similar to how you build the single hand washing sink. Use 1/6 size plastic steam table pans. Easy to work with. Use a long kitchen style faucet that pivots and mount in in front of the middle sink. It will reach all three. Then tee all of the drains together and run a drain pipe to the waste water tank. Easy peasy.
If anyone needs a resource for metal, I’ve been exploring a website called metalsdepot.com. They have a large selection and will ship it to you.
Steve… thanks for your suggestions on the 3 compartment sink.
Dale
Hello Steve, First of all I think the welding look idea is genius. Fortunately my health department is fine with a painted interior but what I’m thinking is lining the bread box with the aluminum flashing. Covering the shelf, back, and sides of the interior would give it a faux stainless steel look.
Also a money saving tip. When you go to the paint store to buy the exterior paint for the interior of the cart, they usually have paint where the color was mixed wrong. As long as your not picky about the color you can usually buy it at half price. Since it’s inside only you and your HD will see it.
Hey Steve! I’m in the process of building my second EZ Built and I’m using cutting board material for the top. It’s really great stuff, but I’m curious how to attach and secure the sinks to the material itself? Would normal caulk suffice for securing the sinks to the top? Also what’s your take on attaching the top in general. Should I add the thin plywood and then the cutting board material on top of that? Or just attach the board material straight to the 2×2 frame. Thanks for being awesome!
Hi Larry, I don’t have any details for you, other than the fact that Jack used our plans and videos and modified the heck out of them, lol! Watch all of the videos all the way through before you start and you will see how everything is constructed. From there it’s a simple matter of making the cart what ever size you want and adding what ever equipment you want.
Just wanted to mention for anybody building the trailer frame (or any type of frame) that to square it up initially you should measure diagonally from corner to corner & adjust framework as needed to obtain the same measurements for both sides. This method is highly accurate (as long as all the opposing rails are exact size) & can be used if you don’t have a square. Just need a decent tape measure. Check measurement before, during, & after tightening bolts/fasteners. Maybe this is covered elsewhere? Just thought I’d throw it out there.
Hey Steve, when you say attach the metal with a thin layer of construction adhesive, do you use the power grab and spread it with a putty knife or something else?
have a quick question I am starting to build my cart out of metal do I still have to deduct the half inch from the outside since I am not going to use plywood skins just asking thanks for any help
Steve, Great ideas on metal carts ,I think I will build wood cart for first year and retro next winter.I am one of those who did not have $350. but now I am able to get started. thanks a bunch ,Ron c
I’m so glad you’re here Ron. Let me know how else I can help you!!!
Steve, Glad to be here as a Premium member. I will eventually build a metal cart as I think it looks great but first I am going to build a basic wood one. Hopefully by the end of the summer I will be able to get this accomplished. Looking forward to watching the rest of the video’s and learning all that you have pioneered for the rest of us.
Dave
Sounds like a good plan. You can always cover your cart with metal at a later date as shown in the Metal Secrets videos. The wood construction method that we teach in the videos is actually stronger and much tougher than a cart built purely from metal.
Metal carts are held together with screws and rivets. Add a couple hundred miles of bumpy roads and those screws start to strip out and the rivets break.
Our E-Z Built Hot Dog Cart Videos show you how to build a cart using the same construction methods that airplane builders used in the golden age of aviation. The cart is built on a light wooden frame and covered with a thin plywood.
It is not only screwed together, it is glued together as well. The result is an extremely light, extremely stiff structure that will never come apart.
I’m still using the exact cart that you see me build in the E-Z Built construction videos. It’s several years old and looks like brand new.
Steve: I have a commercially made cart which I am selling….the 8″ tires and short wheel base really make it “zig zag” down the road behind my truck. Can you tell me the approximate cost to build the E-Z built with a metal skin (HD issue)?
Thank you again for all you do!!! I have been reading your info since summer of 2010 and it has been invaluable. I am moving from Washington back to Idaho since my wife’s passing so I want to build a better cart that doesn’t snake down the road…thank you again!
Thanks again…Larry Winters Island Dogs Camano Island Washington
Hi Larry,
I’m so sorry about your wife. My condolences.
Adding the metal skin can range from $300 for full diamond plate down to under $60 if you use wide rolls of aluminum flashing from the hardware store. The latter is becoming a really popular option among E-Z Builders.
As far as towing, I can speak from experience. When I tow my own E-Z Built I don’t even know it’s behind me unless I look in the rear view mirror. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Let me know what else I can do for you, and know that you have my prayers for your loss.
Hey Larry, just make sure your trailer is built square and towing should be no problem. Looking at some of the forums on those small trailers if they are not built square they tow all squirly. So use a framing square or a speed square to check every corner. Best of luck an happy building
Good advice Michael. I’ve had a lot of experience with these bolt together trailer kits and have not had any towing troubles but a square and true frame is always a good thing!
Hello Steve, I have just started to build my cart, out of wood not metal. The only problem I have is I also
Have to have three extra sinks. Any ideas would be helpful. Setting up a seperate plumbing system is that necessary. I also have seen a seperate sink system altogether, it’s on wheels and you can just have it in the area of the cart. Don’t know which way to go yet. Also just had left knee replaced so things will go slow. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
Hi Ken,
Left knee, huh. I guess you’re all right now. 😉
Build three sink basins into one box, similar to how you build the single hand washing sink. Use 1/6 size plastic steam table pans. Easy to work with. Use a long kitchen style faucet that pivots and mount in in front of the middle sink. It will reach all three. Then tee all of the drains together and run a drain pipe to the waste water tank. Easy peasy.
If anyone needs a resource for metal, I’ve been exploring a website called metalsdepot.com. They have a large selection and will ship it to you.
Steve… thanks for your suggestions on the 3 compartment sink.
Dale
Thanks for the resource Dale!
Hello Steve, First of all I think the welding look idea is genius. Fortunately my health department is fine with a painted interior but what I’m thinking is lining the bread box with the aluminum flashing. Covering the shelf, back, and sides of the interior would give it a faux stainless steel look.
Also a money saving tip. When you go to the paint store to buy the exterior paint for the interior of the cart, they usually have paint where the color was mixed wrong. As long as your not picky about the color you can usually buy it at half price. Since it’s inside only you and your HD will see it.
Great ideas Paul. I like the one about lining the breadbox with metal. That would look really pro!
-Steve
Great Video series. Went out to Harbor Freight today and made the first purchase to start the Build. Ho Ho Ho, here we go.
Nice Santa!
Hey Steve! I’m in the process of building my second EZ Built and I’m using cutting board material for the top. It’s really great stuff, but I’m curious how to attach and secure the sinks to the material itself? Would normal caulk suffice for securing the sinks to the top? Also what’s your take on attaching the top in general. Should I add the thin plywood and then the cutting board material on top of that? Or just attach the board material straight to the 2×2 frame. Thanks for being awesome!
Hi Jay, I would use adhesive caulk. Be sure to also caulk them in from the underside as well so they can’t pull up and out.
Steve I like concept of pictured in website site Jacks last stand can you give any info on framing for that cart thanks larraoke aka larry
Hi Larry, I don’t have any details for you, other than the fact that Jack used our plans and videos and modified the heck out of them, lol! Watch all of the videos all the way through before you start and you will see how everything is constructed. From there it’s a simple matter of making the cart what ever size you want and adding what ever equipment you want.
Just wanted to mention for anybody building the trailer frame (or any type of frame) that to square it up initially you should measure diagonally from corner to corner & adjust framework as needed to obtain the same measurements for both sides. This method is highly accurate (as long as all the opposing rails are exact size) & can be used if you don’t have a square. Just need a decent tape measure. Check measurement before, during, & after tightening bolts/fasteners. Maybe this is covered elsewhere? Just thought I’d throw it out there.
Yes indeed, that’s a great tip Bruce. Thanks!
Hey Steve, when you say attach the metal with a thin layer of construction adhesive, do you use the power grab and spread it with a putty knife or something else?
Yes, that is what I did. However, I recently discovered that contact adhesive (the kind used for laminate countertops) works even better.
I thought about that, thanks Steve very helpful!
My pleasure Tom.
have a quick question I am starting to build my cart out of metal do I still have to deduct the half inch from the outside since I am not going to use plywood skins just asking thanks for any help
Hi Harley, deduct twice the thickness of the metal you are using to skin the cart.